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“Layout/Cutting/Marking: Let fabric relax overnight. Before cutting, compare the amount of fabric stretch with the amount required for the design. Generally the greatest stretch goes around the body.Stitching: Start each new project with a new needle in the smallest recommended size. Change needles frequently; synthetic fibers dull needles faster than natural fibers. To check the needle for burrs, stitch through a nylon stocking scrap. Use polyester thread, which is more elastic than cotton. Wind the bobbin slowly. When wound on high, the thread heats up and stretches. Then, when sewn into the seam, it relaxes, and the seam shortens or puckers. For more elastic seams, stitch with a narrow zig-zag (W,.5-L,1), and stretch slightly when stitching. Or stitch on a serger with a safety-stitch and textured thread on the loopers.Seams: Use stretch seams where appropriate. When sewing women’s swimwear, stabilize shoulder and waist seams and edges with stay tape or clear elastic.”
Right now I am trying to find some ethically acceptable filling for a 200 x 220 cm summer duvet and a sleeping bag.
I already found pattern and tutorial for the sleeping bag (in Swedish).
Down seemed like a good idea until I visited the Swedish Animal Rights association and read about down being plucked from living animals.
Animal Rights (swedish Djurens Rätt) recommends to abstain from wool if you care about animal welfare. Source
Alternatives to wool and down fillings
Kapok is difficult to spin but is used as an alternative to down as filling in mattresses, pillows, upholstery, zafus, and stuffed toys such as teddy bears, and for insulation. Source: “Ceiba pentandra.” Wikipedia, The Free Encyclopedia.
Sold at Lotus Design non-eco? per kg (not in stock during writing). I have no idea how warm this is. Has anybody tried this in a blanket?
Price 16€ / kg
Can also be bought non-eco by the bale direct from China.
White Lotus in the U.S.A. sells eco-pillows filled with kapok.
Through amazon.co.uk PERFECT PILLOW sells organic kapok for stuffing at 12£ / kg and a duvet is also availible there for 286£.
Swedish note: Kapok kan certifieras med bra miljöval om Fair Wild Foundations regler följts vid indsamlingen.
Coconut coir (to sit on)
Sold at Lotus Design in blocks coated with latex (not in stock during writing). I have no idea how warm or soft this is. Has anybody tried this?
Price 12€ / piece
After a break for some time I have started crafting again.
News: I am now equipped with a serger! Sewing today I witnessed a great improvement in speed and strength of the seams when using the serger to sew my third pair of KALSON.
What drives me to persue the learning of old crafts like tanning, leather craft, braiding, rawhide craft and hand-sewing?
The possibility of making my own clothes and useful items with complete control of all substances used in the hole chain from raw material n finished product. This is can emancipation from the dependency on the industrial production of clothes and accessories.
With rawhide, leather, fur and small amounts of fabric you can make virtually anything your body needs to survive in a temperate climate.
The only thing needed besides the above is KNOWLEDGE. That you can find in a wealth of books and brains around the planet but you have to dedicate time and energy to successfully acquire it.
I recently uploaded two patterns to Wikimedia commons and inserted one of them in a relevant article in the English Wikipedia
Today I made a letter to thank those who inspired and pushed me forward in stopping the shopping and starting the sewing: 3 months of sewing (pdf, 1,1MB)
I found a discarded military tent made in plastic (1 mm thick). I recently cut out some of it and tested sewing in it. It worked quite well but precisely as with leather it ‘sucks’ on to the presser foot. This can to my knowledge be solved in two ways: * install a walking foot (this is unfortunately not available for my machine) * glue a piece of special plastic to the underside of the presser foot to decrease the friction.
Unfortunately I discovered that the plastic smells a lot. This is probably caused by (toxic) softeners added to the plastic during manufacturing. This has caused me to discard the material and focus on nontoxic materials instead.
I just bought a lot of canvas. It is a mix of hemp and ecologic cotton (50/50). I plan to make bags, workwear and perhaps a door for a tipi that I hope to borrow and live in during the sunny season.
Here in the middle of Sweden we have 70% of the yearly sunhours from April to September.
Today I changed the name of this blog to Liberumia.